Art, food, smog and beach
Lima is not a beauty, but you will find here two things: world famous food and a lot of art.
In general Lima is not a nice city. The traffic is horrible, most houses are grey and ugly. Millions of people are living in the capital of Peru. Most of them are very poor. Just a few inhabitants are rich, most of them are foreigners. For tourists there are two districts I can recommend: Miraflores and Barranco. Here you will find a lot of great food places and a nice cultural program. You will also find some of the best and most expensive restaurants of the world in Lima. But there are cheaper options. Some of the restaurants are very European and American, you will find everywhere gluten-free or vegan stuff.
I spent some days in Barranco, I would call it the Soho of Lima. Here are some hip cafes, a lot of art places and shops. I liked the most the great coffee and the delicious ceviche (a very popular dish in Peru, made of raw fish, lime, onions and spices). The nightlife is also very nice. You will drink the best Pisco Sour in Peru (a cocktail that contains liquor made of grapes called pisco, lime, sugar and egg).
My favorite cafe: http://www.lasvecinascafe.com/
My favorite bar: http://www.ayahuascarestobar.com/
For hotel options I can recommend Second Home Peru. The wooden house is more than hundred years old and managed by the family since the beginning. The hotel offers a great view on the Pacific Ocean, best thing is to enjoy the view in one of the hammocks. On the weekend you can watch local surfers. The owner of the hotel is the famous artist Victor Delfin. He is living in a house right next to the hotel. He created the sculptures of the Love Park in Lima. You can visit the artist every day after breakfast. More: http://secondhomeperu.com/
Hiking in Peru: http://www.wanderlustmag.de/2017/10/12/salkantay-trek/